12,000+ Miles in less than Five Months

Since Jan 9, we've taken dozens of trips to climb from Salt Lake City, including several to Moe's Valley (St. George, Utah), two to Bishop, California, one to Moab and Kane Springs Canyon, three to Bozeman, Montana, and a *buttload* to Joe's Valley.

I'm about to leave Salt Lake City for the summer. I'll spend the first month in Ten Sleep, Wyoming trying to remind my forearms how to climb more than ten moves at a time. After that, I'll head to Sweden where I'll hopefully get to boulder, trad climb, and sport climb.

JOE'S VALLEY, UTAH

David sending Beyond Live (Gustavo Moser photo).

Sucking in Joe's 3 from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

BISHOP, CALIFORNIA

Bishop from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

MOAB: KANE SPRINGS CANYON, UTAH

MOE'S VALLEY, UTAH

Bishop Collage

Bishop from David Sjoquist on Vimeo.

Here's a video of some of the recent trips' climbing by David Sjoquist. Enjoy!

Send Train, Choo Choo

Crap-tastic weather outside makes inside weather so much nicer.

Getting the most out of the hotel room: Shower for all!

The next day (Monday): David trying Los Locos (now broken at the top) in The Sads.

Tuesday in The Milks: Liesel getting ready to send the hell out of a really, really fun V5 on the Smooth Shrimp boulder.

Climbing isn't just about the climbing. It's also about taking sick lifestyle shots.

Liesel is too badass for her skin.

David topped out on Grandma Peabody twice and once on Grandpa. Here he's setting up a top rope for freakin' Evilution -past the lip.

Bishop: Making the Best of Increasingly Harsh Weather

When we left Salt Lake for a ~12-day trip to Bishop, the weather looked perfect. Even a bit too warm for bouldering. But as soon as we arrived, so to did a massive storm front with persistent, strong winds, snow, rain, and more winds.

Weather.com: "Blasted in the West: Super Wet and Windy West Coast"

Liesel chowing down on her favorite: sandwiches.

So that's what all the wind was bringing in: Morning in The Buttermilks after our first bad storm (Saturday morning).

Time to head down to the Tablelands.

Cooking breakfast on the way up to The Sads. Where I'm really excited to climb because its lack of crimpers allows me to try hard in spite of my finger injuries!

Climbing that same day (Saturday): David warming up on the "No P"-- unknown stem problem that should be much longer. ("No P" visible in chalk, in David's shadow.)

Alex sending Hauck a Loogie (V3) during our warmup session at the top of The Sads.

Steve trying Molly (V6). We have to go back and send this!

Nature Liesel and her stick brush.

Cool formations at The Sads.

Looking down the canyon of The Sads; view of Eastern Sierras in background.

David sending French Press (V6)...

... (sending again. Sent three times?)

...and the weather finally got so bad (Sat night/ Sun morning, March19/20) that we finally caved: packed up the tent at 4:30 am in blowing rain/ snow, and headed into the Motel 6.

Attempt to dry out/ de-mud some of our stuff.

We're really on vacation now: breakfast at Denny's, including an order of all-you-can-eat pancakes.

A trip back up to the table lands to retrieve some of our last goods left in the storm

What's next?

Weather looks great again, starting on Tuesday. Still in the hotel tonight, and hoping for climbable weather in The Sads tomorrow... have quite a few problems to wrap up there!

Below are some videos from friend, Steve Marcil:

Me doing The Sheephearder (?, V2)

Issues in the morning after a windy, sleepless night.

The final kicker-outer (of the Milks)- time to move down to The Tablelands.

Bishop Mar 16-27

Students are on spring break, so we took off to Bishop! The once perfect-looking weather has shifted to a sketchy forecast- but we're already here-- so are just gonna hope for the best.

Photos of the drive to Bishop, and the first day there, below. More climbing photos to follow.

The long drive across Nevada.

View of Buttermilks Main from the Painted Cave.

Elizabeth and Liesel contemplating a bizarre-o problem.

Liesel and Kevin holding a wake for Nate Dogg.

Andrew returning the lantern that he tried to steal.

David trying to deal with the returned lantern.

Alex navigating the shrubbery.

Tents in the sand.

The day's location.