Thursday, July 23, 2009

Ceuse

CEUSE IS STILL PARADISE. For the first time in years,  I feel like I'm finally getting the chance to get in proper climbing shape... Each day I feel more and more fit -which leads me to believe that I still have a lot of room to improve before I plateau. In addition to the physical gains, I'm also enjoying a good head. I think all of the trad climbing of the recent years, the less-than-ideal conditions on trips all winter and spring, and all of the varied rock I've been on recently have all contributed to strengthening my mental game in climbing-- and now that my body is finally getting the chance to gain fitness (through regular, uninterrupted climbing) for the first time in YEARS, I'm finally able to take advantage of the mental improvements I've been accumulating. 


So. I'm continuing to climb lots of volume here -but am also starting to send routes more regularly -flash and onsite as well as 2nd try. I've also got a project that's heavy in the techy/ power-endurance department- and I've made huge improvements on that. The holds feel like they grow 30 percent each of the two days I've tried it since the initial burn. 


As for the social scene, there's been a major changing of the guard recently. Many of the original crew are long-gone and others are preparing to leave. The camping is getting quite crowded (so, too, are the cliffs)- but it's OK. I've moved into a caravan- so I now have a power source and desk for writing (yes!) and a stove for cooking (yes!)... for only 2 Euro/ night more than camping. 


Anyway. I think the next week will be a major transition phase around camp. Lots of people on their way out and an inevitable replacement by new neighbors. It's been great meeting all of these people and making genuine, life-long connections with a truly international crew.


More later! Peace out from the McDonald's (free wifi zone) in Gap.








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