40 Pitches in One January Day at... Indian Creek?

Yes. Indian Creek.

My friend Patrick Purcell, prolific first ascentionist and machine extraordinaire, celebrated his 50th birthday on January 30th, 2009.

My friend, Zac, and I headed down to help him put ropes up on as many routes as possible; his goal was to climb 50 pitches in a single day. Being an alpine ski racing coach in the midst of an intense season, and laden with laryngitis and a sinus infection, Patrick had two strikes against him in his pursuit of an already lofty goal... add to that the scanty daylight hours afforded by this deep-winter month.

The morning of the big day, we left our frigid Bridger Jacks campsite and forded the stream en route to Donnelly Canyon/ Supercrack Buttress. Waking up, we knew it was cold outside, and our thoughts were confirmed when, upon stream-crossing, we broke through ice so thick that it punctured a hole in the front bumper of my car and ripped off two mudflaps and other side panel pieces.

Nonetheless, we forged on, took pictures, and laughed at my poor car. We parked and hiked up to the crag wearing so many layers, our limbs could hardly bend. Yet, the sun came up and we relished in a beautiful day of climbing in full sunlight. Some of the belays, even, were done in t-shirts. Occasionally, a breeze would remind us that, in fact, it was January- but otherwise it was a sunbowl of a day.

Nine pitches completely wore me out- my mind, my muscles, and of course, my skin- which hadn't properly crack climbed since November.

But Patrick was an absolute machine. As I said, I hadn't climbed cracks since November-- yet Patrick, who couldn't remember the last time he had touched a crack (likely years and years earlier), cranked out pitch after pitch... after pitch, after pitch. Though he did not reach his goal, he absolutely tore down 40 pitches- cranked them out in style, and was in fine spirits after the sun went down on that short winter day.

Tomorrow Zac and I hope to top on the Corner Route (Cirque of the Climbables, Kane River Road, Moab). We'll see how that goes...